First power tools: corded vs cordless

Power tools are where workshop budgets disappear. The trick is to buy for the jobs you actually do, in the order you need them, and to make one early decision carefully: which battery system, if any, you are going to commit to.

The first three tools

Drill-driver

A drill-driver with an adjustable clutch is the foundation. The clutch slips at a set torque so screws stop at the right depth instead of shearing or sinking too far. Two-speed gearboxes give a slow gear for driving screws and a fast gear for drilling. A combi drill adds a hammer action for drilling brick and blockwork; for most homes that is worth having, though for hard concrete a proper SDS drill does the job far better.

Jigsaw

A jigsaw cuts curves, cut-outs in worktops and sheet material, and rough straight cuts when there is no other saw. It will not give a perfectly square edge in thick timber, because the blade can flex, but with a good blade and a guide it is surprisingly capable. Look for a pendulum (orbital) setting for faster cuts in timber and tool-free blade changing.

Random orbital sander

A 125 mm random orbital sander removes material quickly and leaves a far better finish than a basic orbital or detail sander. It also produces a lot of fine dust, so pick one with a port you can connect to an extractor (see our dust extraction guide).

The next tools

• Circular saw or track saw. For straight cuts in sheet material and long boards. A track saw running on a guide rail gives clean, accurate cuts and is safer for many people than wrestling a full sheet onto a table saw.
• Impact driver. For driving long screws quickly.
• Router. Edges, grooves, rebates and joinery. Loud, fast and dusty, so treat it with respect.
• Mitre saw. Fast, repeatable cross-cuts and angles for frames, skirting and garden projects.
• Multi-tool (oscillating tool). Plunge cuts in awkward places, trimming door casings, cutting through nails. Indispensable for repairs.

Static machines such as table saws, bandsaws and planer-thicknessers are a further step. They need space, a good electrical supply, proper guarding and training in their safe use. Many hobbyists never need them.

Corded vs cordless

Neither is simply better. The right answer depends on how you work.

In practice many workshops end up mixed. Drills, drivers and multi-tools are almost always better cordless, because you carry them about. High-draw tools used for long periods at the bench, such as routers, sanders used for an hour at a time and mitre saws, often make sense corded. If you do choose a corded tool, plan where its cable will run so it does not cross the cutting line or trail across the floor.

Choosing a battery platform

Cordless tools from one manufacturer share batteries, so your first cordless purchase quietly commits you to that maker's range. Before you buy, look at the whole platform:

• Does it include the tools you are likely to want in five years, not just the drill?
• Are tool-only versions sold, so you do not pay for another battery and charger each time?
• Are replacement batteries readily available from ordinary retailers?
• What voltage class is it? In the UK most mainstream ranges are 18 V (sometimes marketed as 20 V max elsewhere) with 12 V ranges for compact tools.

Avoid unbranded replacement batteries of unknown origin. A lithium-ion pack contains a lot of stored energy, and a badly made one is a fire risk. Our tool care guide covers charging and storing batteries safely.

What to check on any power tool

• Markings. Tools sold in Great Britain should carry a UKCA or CE mark. Be wary of very cheap tools from unknown online sellers with no clear manufacturer or importer address.
• Guards. Blade guards should move freely and return fully. Never buy or use a tool with a guard that has been removed or wedged.
• Switches. Saws and grinders should have a lock-off so they cannot start accidentally.
• Dust port. Check the size and whether it fits a standard extractor hose or needs an adapter.
• Noise and vibration figures. Manufacturers publish declared noise and vibration values. Higher numbers mean more need for hearing protection and shorter spells of use.
• Second-hand. Check the cable for nicks and taped repairs, the plug for scorching, and the tool for play in the bearings. Walk away from anything with a damaged cable.

Accessories make more difference than the tool

A mid-range saw with a good blade will usually cut better than an expensive saw with a poor one. Budget for decent consumables from the start:

• Drill bits. Separate sets for wood (brad-point), metal (HSS) and masonry. Using a masonry bit in timber, or a wood bit in steel, gives poor holes and wears out bits fast.
• Driver bits. Good-quality Pozidriv and Torx bits that fit the screw heads firmly. Cheap bits round off and damage screws.
• Saw blades. Fewer, larger teeth for fast ripping; more teeth for clean cross-cuts and sheet material. Jigsaw blades are marked for wood, metal or laminate and for fast or clean cutting.
• Abrasives. A stock of 80, 120, 180 and 240 grit discs covers most sanding. Work through the grits in order rather than skipping.

Change blades and abrasives as soon as they dull. Forcing a blunt blade makes a tool work harder, heat up, burn the timber and increases the risk of kickback.

Safety basics before first use

Read the manual, even if it feels obvious. Wear eye protection for every power tool operation, and hearing protection for routers, saws and sanders. Clamp the work, not your hand. Unplug the tool or remove the battery before changing a blade or bit. Our guide to workshop safety and PPE goes through the rest, and our electrical safety guide explains how to run corded tools safely from your supply.